3 reasons to make it pop, and 3 steps to get there.

Reason #1:  In a recent study, it was discovered that 71% of home buyers make their decision at the curb, and the trip into the house is simply to confirm what the buyer has already decided.  I have not idea if that percentage is accurate.  71 seems pretty specific, and I am dubious that anyone could really know such a statistic so precisely.  However, I do know that curb appeal matters to buyers.  Here is what I have found in 13 years of working with sellers, buyers, and realtors.  Tidy matters.  No matter how simple, or how sophisticated a landscape is, if it is well-kept, a buyer translates that to the rest of the house.  And likewise if it is a jumbled mess.  To make matters worse, a poorly kept landscape looks like a problem that needs to be fixed, and buyers start subtracting from the home price before they even get in the door.

Reason #2:  Even if you are not selling your home, the view from the street is your personal presentation of yourself and your family to the rest of the world.

Reason #3:  You come home to it every day!

So, now that we agree that it is important, how does one go about developing good curb appeal?

1.  Plan well.  The front of a home is a signature, and the landscape is the frame and flourish.  Plan to highlight the most important features, such as the front door, or an octagonal sitting room.  The landscape should be the capable assistant, not the superstar.

2.  Mind the speed at which the front of your home will be viewed.  I thought about putting this as number one, because in my opinion, it the most misunderstood design principle.  Since viewers will pass your home at 30 miles an hour in their car, and even walking up the sidewalk occurs at the astonishing speed of 3-4 miles per hour, changing plant varieties too often will result in a plan that is difficult to read.  Save the variety, and specialty plants that have little impact from a distance, for the back yard.  Simplify your plan by creating larger masses and sweeps of plants.  This does not mean your plan must be boring!  (refer to the previous blog about sophistication in your landscape).  Plant shrubs and perennials in groups of 5, 12, or even 100, rather than 1’s and 2’s.

3.  If you find yourself stymied or uncertain, hire a professional designer.  And if you don’t know a good one, you can always reach the professionals at Paragon at 260-627-8342!

• Level 1:  This refers to a simple planting, one layer deep, usually a row of foundation shrubs.  This is the classic look of a home that has a minimal landscape installed by the builder.
• Level 2:  A row of shrubs, fronted by a mass of perennials or groundcovers.
• Level 3:  Backdrop shrubs in the back of the planting bed, groundcovers in the front, and masses of perennials or smaller shrubs in the mid ground.
• Level 4:  An upgraded version of level 3, but with beds large enough to accommodate ornamental trees, accent stones, and other landscape ammenities.  These details give the planting beds more depth and interest than plants alone.
• Level 5:  Like level 4, but designed in a way that sweeps into the open spaces of the yard, defining spaces, screening unsightly views, and creating focal points and destinations in the landscape.

When we meet with a client, there are two factors which tend to have the strongest influence on the level of landscape sophistication we create.

1. The Client’s Vision for their property
2. The Client’s Budget

To make your landscaping more sophisticated, determine what level your landscape currently qualifies to be, and study plantings and pictures that reach the next level.  In this way, you can improve the look of your home one step at a time.  Focus your attention on the most important areas first.  Backyard Living Spaces and Curb Appeal are usually the most important, since they are “where you live” and “what people see.”  It is ok to have the front of your home at a level 4, the backyard living space at a level 5, and a seldom-used side of the house at level 1.  Wise investing allows for putting your hard-earned money in the places that give the most return.

For an interesting exercise, classify the homes in your area the next time you are out for a walk.  You might be surprised to find that the homes in your area tend to follow a pattern, as different subdivisions have their own level of planting sophistication.  In this “New” way of looking at the world, it becomes obvious who loves landscaping (a level 5 landscape in a subdivision who averages level 2’s, for example), and who couldn’t care less (level 1, or even “0″…yikes!).  If you look closely, you might even see the trend-setters, those who improve their place level by level, and inspire their neighbors or their entire block to upgrade.

Have fun with this exercise, and please keep Paragon in mind if you need help getting your landscape to the proper level of sophistication.  We stand ready to serve!

Whatever you do, DON”T PULL THEM! Most colonizing weeds grow by Rhizomes, and pulling them is not effective unless you get every root and rhizome. It will cost you a lot of time, and yield poor results.

Instead, “Hand Wipe” the weeds in the following manner:

1. Put on a pair of new, intact rubber gloves.
2. Cover the rubber glove on your good hand with a normal cotton work glove. The rubber gloves will protect you from the chemical that will soak into the cotton glove. Be sure the rubber glove comes farther up your arm than the cotton glove.
3. Dip the cotton glove directly into your weed control mix (obviously this only applies to round-up or other light duty non-restricted herbicides).
4. Wipe the grass blades or weed foliage with the moist glove. This places the chemical directly onto the leaves of the plant you are eliminating, while leaving your good plants unharmed.

This method will not eliminate every weed the first time around. Our goal is 80% of the grass or weeds with each application. In a few applications, done a couple of weeks apart, you can have your unsightly weed problem largely under control.

And of course, remember that Paragon is here to serve you in the Indianapolis, Wawasee, Fort Wayne, and Angola areas! Please call for a free estimate at 260-627-8342.

]]> http://www.paragonlandscaping.com/blog/index.php/how-to-eliminate-grass-from-your-perennial-beds-and-groundcovers/feed http://www.paragonlandscaping.com/blog/index.php/the-best-time-for-weed-controlnovember http://www.paragonlandscaping.com/blog/index.php/the-best-time-for-weed-controlnovember#comments Mon, 16 Nov 2009 15:22:10 +0000 Trent http://www.paragonlandscaping.com/blog/?p=257 Weeds grab our attention in May and June, resulting in a frenzy of activity in hopes of cleaning up the lawn and landscape beds.

However, although weed control is important through the summer, the best results may actually be achieved now, today!  Yes, in November!

Research at Purdue University has demonstrated that, while September and November are the best times for lawn fertilization, October is actually the best time for weed control in the lawn.  It hits the growth cycle of fall germinating weeds, many of which have grown, flowered, and reseeded themselves into the lawn before the may/june application can effect them.  In addition, it is the time of the year when food storage in dandelions and other persistent perennial weeds is most active. Plants are very active, moving a lot of food into their roots.

Weeds don’t often help us to eradicate themselves, but this action of moving food from their leaves to their roots (called “Translocation”), is very helpful indeed.  A very small amount of spray can go a long way!

What is true in the lawn is true in the landscape bed.  Translocation is occurring, and weeds are susceptible.

In the landscape bed, however, I wait a little longer in the season than the “October Ideal”, hence my assertion that November is best.  Here is why.  Many perennials die back, and shrubs lose their leaves, allowing me to spot spray persistent dandelions, thistles, and even lawn grasses which have crept into my landscape beds, without harming my good plants.

Obviously, the weeds won’t show effects of the spray as quickly as they do on a warm summer day, but they will die!  Slowly, surely, and completely!

So keep a small sprayer mixed and ready, take advantage of a dry day, and rest assured that you have applied your weed control efforts in the most efficient manner.

And remember, if you are from Indy, Fort Wayne, Wawasee, or the Angola areas, we are never too busy for your referrals!  If you appreciate the knowledge portrayed in our blogs, and know someone who could use our services, please don’t hesitate to have them call 260-627-8342.

Nutrients made available to plants go one of four places:

1. Greening of the plant
2. Top Growth
3. Food Storage
4. Escaping into the air

Spring fertilizations result in 1, 2, and 4.

Summer fertilizations result in 4, 2, and 1.

Fall and late fall fertilizations result in 3 and 1, which causes these applications to give the best return on investment one could hope for.

Although Potassium is important to root growth, Nitrogen is vital to every growth function of the plant, and yields the best results in plant health. This is why a winterizing fertilizer still has lots of Nitrogen in its make-up to go along with elevated Potassium levels.

The best time for the Winterizing Fertilizer application is that point in time when the top growth has practically ceased. This is an indication that the plant is changing its focus to root and rhizome growth and development. There is a danger to fertilizing too early, before the top has ceased growing.

If one promotes more top growth, the grass can enter the winter too shaggy, causing it to trap moisture, build up humidity, and become a perfect breeding ground for snow molds. Watch closely for the end of top growth (probably mid November in our area this year), then fertilize with confidence!

And, as you know, we are always available to serve you. A fall clean-up and lawn fertilization is a wonderful way to close out the year! Call 260-627-8342 for a free estimate. I’m confident you’ll like the Paragon approach to your lawn and landscape!

• Mushrooms grow in organic material. Humus rich mediums such as mulch and composted soil provide a wonderful place for fungus to grow.
• There are fungus spores everywhere, including in the air you are breathing right now.
• Mushrooms and other funguses do best when there is ample moisture and the right temperature. This year has been very wet, and ideal from a temperature standpoint, so funguses are more noticeable this year than past years.

The three items mentioned above represent the three legs of the Pathological Triangle. Mulch and compost play the role of the “susceptible host”, fungus spores play the part of “presence of the pathogen”, and the moisture has fulfilled the requirement for a “suitable environment.” With all three in play, we should expect to see a lot of fungus at work.

What to do about it?

Though most of this is beyond human control, there is some amount of effort we can apply to improve the situation.

• First, control moisture in the effected area as much as possible. Shut off irrigation. If watering is necessary, water only at the base of the plant, only in the early morning (before 10:00 am).
• Second, disturb the medium. Rake the mulch to knock down the fungus. Some funguses make large patches, which should be removed and disposed (this can often be done with minimal loss of mulch). Cultivating the mulch in this manner will also allow air into the humus-rich layer which grows the fungus. This aeration will help to dry out the humus, and make it less wonderful for the fungus.
• Third, if the problem is really bad, or really persistent, a fungicide can be applied. Always read and follow label instructions. In my opinion, only do this if absolutely necessary.
• Finally, remember that “this too shall pass.” The weather in our area changes on a regular basis. It will eventually dry out, and at that time, funguses will not be as much of a problem.

On toward excellence!

Trent

What is the solution?  It’s not worth the time to trace them back to their den, where a wasp and hornet spray would make short work of their colony.  And besides, I want to spend my time watching my kids’ soccer game or fellowshipping at the picnic with my family and friends, instead of chasing insects.  So how can these denizens of the dog days be kept at bay with the least amount of trouble.

Mountain Dew!

I’ll explain, but first I have to tell you a story.  As a young landscaper, these creatures were the bain of the landscape sight.  Along with multiple painful stings, they ruined many of my afternoon sodas.  Although I am now a Diet Coke man, I was into sugar pop as a young man.  I would crack open a frosty soda can on a hot day, take a generous swig, then set it down to dive into some hard, hot work.  Once, when returning for another swig, I very nearly swallowed one of the critters who was swimming in my soda.  THAT would have been a BAD day!

This led to my use of 12 oz bottles with lids, so I could see my soda before I drank it, and so I could cap it again after each drink.  Once, when the lid was not replaced, a yellow jacket flew into the bottle.  As I watched, he landed on the side and drank some soda.  However, when he attempted to fly off, he could navigate back through the small hole he had flown in.  One bump on the side of the bottle, and he fell into his heavenly dinner, never to fly again.  A light bulb turned on, and a life enhancement was born.  From that day forward, when we got into the hot days of August and September, we kept a bottle of Mountain Dew handy.  We would place it in the area where the Yellow Jackets were most problematic, and leave the cap off for them to enjoy.  As we identified the direction from which the insects were coming, we would move it closer, intercepting them before they became a problem for our jobsite.  Aaah!  Much more comfortable.

After years of landscaping and experimenting with various sodas, bottle sizes, etc, here is what we have learned.

Mountain Dew is the best bait in our experience.  Other sugary sodas can’t seem to match the drawing power of MD, perhaps because of the real juice used in the soda.

Empty the bottle of 2/3 of its contents.  This allows the wasps to have room to enter, drink, and attempt to fly away.  It’s the flying, and bumping into the top and sides, that causes them to lose flight control and fall into the drink.  It also allows a little extra soda so that you can dump out the top 1/2 inch when the bodies pile up thick enough (ok, that sounds a little morbid) for other wasps to actually land on them, regain their wings, and make a second run at escaping.  A 20 oz. bottle should be able to hold about 20 wasps before this becomes a problem.

A 12 or 20 oz bottle works best.  Cans don’t allow for checking of the trap, and allow easy landing and escape.  2 litre bottles have too wide a neck, and too much flying space inside.  Again, this allows for some escape to occur.  12 and 20 oz bottles have the perfect combination of easy entrance, and difficult escapability.  Yes, I am inventing words to describe our insect control system.

Do not spill soda on the outside of the bottle.  No Free Lunches.  You want the wasps to enter the bottle, not land on the outside.

Place the bottle where the Yellow Jackets are the biggest problem.  Once you have attracted them, pay attention to the direction from which they are flying.  Move the bottle in the direction of their approach until it is out of the way of your event.

Enjoy your picnic!

Everyone knows that August is tough because of dry, dusty heat (consider the often-used phrase “The dog days of August”). But there are other reasons that landscapes and lawns tend to look awful at this time of the year.

Fungus problems! although there are funguses which can thrive in any almost any type of weather, from winter snow mold to summer mildew, August is uniquely problematic. Consider this: On one hand, funguses which thrive in hot, humid conditions have now had three months of consistent weather in which to multiply. We’ve all seen exponential charts which show the explosion of an unchecked population. That is why funguses are more prevalent when a weather pattern remains the same for a long period of time. On the other hand, plants stressed by heat and drought are weak. Just like a human body, a plant organism will more readily succomb to a parasitic host when in a weakened state. The result is an August Collision of weak hosts and abundant diseases. What a mess!

Weed Problems! Have you ever wondered why weeds seem to do so well when other plants are struggling? Plants which thrive in this extreme weather have a special metabolic advantage, processing carbon more efficiently during high tempuratures than their competitors. In other words, tough times for some plants are actually a healthy bonanza for others. Unfortunately, the wrong ones. This leads to robust green weeds standing in stark contrast to wilting brown flowers and dormant lawn grasses…an unsightly combination for sure!

Insect Problems! Insects, like Funguses, begin each year with small populations. By August, they can be in their 4th or 5th generation. If each insect successfully passes 10 babies into the next generation (a conservative number), the population in August is potentially 10,000 times larger than it was in April. Yikes. Plants which are healthy will grow through a little insect munching, but stressed-out plants which are in “shut-down” mode easily succomb to the pressure of increased insect populations.

Flower Withdrawal! Only a few flower varieties provide color in August. April, May, and June are loaded with colorful options. Even July has the tail end of June flowers, and Annual Flower Plantings are generally in their prime. But by August, the rush is over, and the Annual Flowers often look ragged due to lack of attention. So August is often a time of yellow foliage, brown seed heads, and leggy flower plantings. ‘Nuf said.

Tired Caregivers! Last, but not least, folks are usually tired of taking care of their landscapes by the time August rolls around. Spring ambitions have given in to the delights of summer, and the looming return of school. Interest fades. Lawns go bad. Landscapes become overpowered by the abundant problems mentioned above.

With all this bad news, there is little wonder why August Landscape Success is such a difficult endeavor. Is there no solution?

Fungus Solutions:

1. Better Genetics! Use plants and lawn grasses which are bred for their resistance to fungus. This may require a “reboot” on your lawn. Or at least an overseeding.
2. Irrigate early in the morning rather than at night. Irrigate deeply every two or three days rather than shallow watering every day.
3. Plan ahead! Research has shown that heavy fall fertilizations do more to promote plant strength and energy reserves than at any other time of year. To limit problems next year, be proactive this fall.
4. Wait for the weather to change. A change in the weather pattern to cool temperatures and low humidity will do more than any other intervention to eliminate funguses.

Weed Solutions:

1. Never say die! it may look bad now, but it will only get worse if you do nothing. This year’s seed is preparing to plague next year’s lawn and landscape. Don’t give in!
2. Be proactive. Along with actively removing/spraying weeds in the landscape, plan to treat your lawn this fall. Again, research has shown that fall is the magic time for effectiveness in the lawn. It may be counter-intuitive to spray your lawn for weeds in October, but it is by far the most effective time to do so.

Insect Solutions:

1. Watch your lawn closely. As it turns green again, look for areas which have been damaged by insects. These areas may need to be reseeded. Remember, Fall is the magic time for lawns, and overseeding in early September is an excellent plan.
2. Plan ahead! If you had insect problems this year, sign up for insect control next summer. There are two kinds of insects which severely damage lawns, beetle grubs, and surface feeding insects. These two types of insect problems require two types of insect control, so know your lawn, and sign up for the proper remedy.
3. If you are not irrigated, consider the benefits of irrigation, as it can keep you lawn healthy enough to withstand an insect infestation. An irrigated lawn also reveals the effected areas more quickly than a brown, dormant lawn, where insect damage can go unnoticed until the lawn greens up in the fall.

Flower Recovery:

1. Genetics! Choose plants which flower well in August.
2. Take care of them! There are no “care-free” flowers in August. All will require some amount of water, pruning, or fertilization to look nice. Consider the energy spent in July and early August to be an investment in August Beauty. You can be successful!

Tired Caregiver Solutions:

1. Genetics! Hire someone with a green thumb.
2. or man up!

Of course, we think Paragon is a great solution (260-627-8342) We would be glad to help your landscape look better all year long, whether you need full service, or help with the majors on a one-time basis. Success is best when it is a team effort!

On toward Excellence!

Fact:  a few simple tips have taken our personal rose garden from disappointing to very satisfying.  This success can be yours as well.

Tip#1:  Choose a location which is exposed to at least 6 hours of sunlight.

Tip #2:  Choose a location which is well drained.  In our Indiana Clay, this can mean planting your roses on a slight slope.  Drainage can be enhanced by overdigging the planting hole, adding pea gravel to the bottom, and by adding in a well-draining soil mix as your planting backfill.

Tip #3:  Plan to plant your roses about 2′ apart.  Even strong roses, (except the shrub forming roses), don’t need much space.  Planting farther apart than this will result in a sparse looking bed even if the roses are performing well.

Tip #4:  Roses benefit from LOTS of composted manure.  Dig your planting hole extra deep (at least as deep as the longest roots on your rose plant, if not a couple of inches deeper), and extra wide (12-18″ wide is helpful).  Get rid of any junky clay soil, replacing it with a composted manure for backfill.  We also add some composted manure each year, just to keep it fresh.  it can be added right over the top of the ground, due to Tip #5.

Tip #5:  This is the most counter-intuitive trick about growing roses.  Don’t hesitate to plant them deep.  Almost all ornamental plants are grown by grafting a stem of the prized plant with good genetics onto a cheap rootstock.  On most other plants, covering of this graft is death to the plant, so the planting line must be below the graft.  We kept planting our roses this way, and had weak plants with small flowers.  Then I happened into a J&P rose guy, who insisted that they should be planted with the graft BELOW the soil line.  I wrestled with this, but finally gave in and began planting in this manner.  This tip, along with the abundance of composted manure, has given us a rose garden with strong canes, lustrous blue-green leaves, and large, abundant flowers.  Wonderful!

Tip #6:  Use a compost mound as insulation through the winter.  We mound compost over the plant to a depth of 6-8″.  In the spring, we spread this compost out as part of our “extra compost”

Tip #7:  Even with all these tips, you should still plan to replace 10-20% of your roses each year.  We have about 20 plants, and lose 3 or 4 each year.  They can be short lived.  But don’t fret about it!  Plant new, and enjoy the blooms!

When studying Ornamental Horticulture, one has the option of focusing on many different branches of the horticulture field.  My personal focus was woody plants and perennials, specifically for the purposes of designing beautiful, lasting spaces for residential clients.  However, I have also long been interested in growing fruit crops.  Call me crazy.  No aspect of horticulture, other than growing roses, has more potential for headaches than getting into a haggle with birds, deer, rodents, insects, and diseases over a few apples and berries.  But since I didn’t have time to study this in school, my wife and I have been on a fifteen year journey to figure out how to “make things grow out of Indiana clay.”

First, the why.  There is something so satisfying about harvesting one’s own fruit and vegetables.  What beats a sweet, homegrown carrot (crooked as henry lauder’s walking stick, maybe, but sweet nonetheless), or a fresh batch of salsa made entirely from one’s own home grown peppers, onions, tomatoes, and cilantro?  Or, my personal favorite, fresh raspberries in a cold, icy, freshly cracked Diet Coke.  Of course, the Diet Coke was bought, not grown in our modest hobby garden…

What do we have?  Here is the history of the Schrock Family in the garden.  My wife and I both come from families who loved to garden, and so we bring a little experience to the table.  But experience does not the garden grow!  Rather, we have had a lot of trial and error.  Maybe more error than not.

Our gardening adventure begin early in our marriage.  While in the baby stages of our first of five children, my lovely wife began to get the itch to plant a garden.  One chilly february, five years and three additional children later (we now have a total of 5), I asked the obvious question.  Why do we plant a garden?  Every year, the seed catalogues come right after Christmas.  We read through them, plan the garden three different ways, and order seeds instead of investing in our childrens’ college funds.  We recieve the seeds in the mail with great joy and anticipation.  We till the garden early, and again later (in the middle of a busy landscape season), and plant our garden.  Then we lose interest.  in the fall, we till the weeds back into the ground.  In the meantime, we purchase fresh vegetables from the truck garden down the road for less than the cost of our seeds.  Did I mention this was a lunatic hobby?

My wife’s answer was simple and poignant.  Hope.  There is something about planning a garden in the bleak winter months which inspires a sense of green, joyful hope.  That hope is what kept us coming back year after unsuccessful year.

But each year, a little more information stuck.  We were investing in our own education, Fruits and Vegetable Production 101.  Sorry kids.  I’m sure it will develop some character of some sort which will help you more than a college fund ever would.  Pretty sure.

Fast forward to today, and we have a salsa garden, okra, cucumbers and squash, a large mint patch with chocolate mint and peppermint.  These provide fresh salsa from August to Frost, and gallons upon gallons of fresh mint tea all summer long.

We also have 4 varieties of raspberries, a dozen Asian Pear trees, 10 apple trees, and 2 apricot trees (take two…our first planting was unsuccessful).  Heidi asked if we could grow a couple of cherry trees.  I said sure, and in what I am now certain was a horticultural siezure, I ordered 7.

We also have 2 red and 2 green seedless grape plants (yet to produce) and 10 maturing Concord Grape plants which yield a gallon of grape jelly, 14 gallons of grape juice concentrate, and 2 gallons of horrible wine each year.

Add to this a tropical twist of a lemon, kumquat, and two fig trees, and you can see we are developing quite a menagerie.

We are thinking we need more children just to help us work our hobby.  especially carrying trees in and out of the sunroom each season.  Yikes.  Once again, kids, I refer you to the certain character growth which is built into working with your hands in the soil.  You’ll thank us for this someday.

So, my intention with F&V 101 articles is to take a diversion from the serious work of landscape design, construction, and maintenance, and to pass on to you what we learn as we stumble our way through this unfamiliar branch of Horticulture.  Welcome, and I hope you enjoy the ride as much as we do.